Ameẓlu yeḥbes 2 n yimalasen, imi ugten yisuturen

Tikliwin i yesɛan aseḥqeq d lexlaṣ ad ddunt, ma d tiyaḍ ad awen-nerr idrimen.

Tama tazelmaḍt n yimyura, seg tgzirt Saint-Louis ɣer Saint-Germain-des-Prés

Sebɛa n yiḥbasen gar tgzirt Saint-Louis d yiznaqen n Saint-Germain-des-Prés, anda i nqecen, i uran, i swan aṭas n lqahwa, i ɛawden lebni n ddunit s ṣṣut ɛlayen. Azal n tlata n yisragen n uvilu s tallalt n trisiti deg ugraw amecṭuḥ, s usteɛfu deg tlemmast n ubrid, anda ayen ara teččem neɣ ara teswem d kunwi ara t-ixelṣen.

Amur agejdan n ubrid d setta n yikilumitren, rnut ɣer-sen abrid n tuffɣa akked win n tuɣalin, d azal n tlettaɛec n yikilumitren s lekmal. Deg setta-agi n yikilumitren i llan tigzirt Saint-Louis, adrar Sainte-Geneviève, azniq Mouffetard, Luxembourg d Saint-Germain-des-Prés. S uḍar, ur tettawḍem ara ala ɣer tulut-nsen deg yiwet n tmeddit. Ɣef uvilu s tallalt n trisiti, tesdukkulem kullec, war tidi deg tsawent n Panthéon, yerna yeqqim-awen wakud iwakken ad tḥebsem zdat n tewwura. Sebɛa n yiḥbasen, yiwen umwanes, d leɛmarat i d-yuɣalen d tansiwin : tin anda i tenqec ṛbeɛṭac n yiseggasen send ad tt-ɣelqen tlatin, tin anda i ttarun imi ulac aseḥmu, tin anda mazal azniq yerfed isem n umezgun i yruḥen seg 1770.

Imyura n Paris ǧǧan-d drus n telwiḥin, aṭas n tedyanin. Camille Claudel tedder yerna tenqec quai de Bourbon seg 1899 armi i tt-rran ɣer sbiṭar n waṭṭan n lɛeqel, deg meɣres 1913. Voltaire d Rousseau, i imyakerhen s wul, sɛeddayen lebda qbala i wayeḍ deg texxamt n ddaw wakal n Panthéon, ur tt-tettwalim ara ala ma tkecmem, yerna ssuma ur tt-tesɛi ara deg-s. Descartes yuɣal-d ɣer Saint-Germain-des-Prés deg 1819, war aqerruy-is, i yeqqimen deg ubrid. Hemingway yura isebtar-is imezwura n Paris ɣef wemyat n lmitrat seg uzniq Mouffetard, deg snat n texxamin war aman iḥman. D tiḥkayin-agi ara d-nnadi, udem n wexxam deffir wayeḍ, seg ubrid d seg usarag.

Tikli tettwaṭṭaf d tikli yebḍan, anda ara ternum ɣer ugraw amecṭuḥ, neɣ d tikli tuslig i kunwi kan. Ssumat d tiskanin, tabzert tekcem deg-sent : deg tikli yebḍan, 75 euros i yal amdan ; deg tikli tuslig, 95 euros i yal amdan. Mačči d ssuma yeddan i ugraw akken ma yella. Avilu s tallalt n trisiti d ukask kecmen deg ssuma. Ssuma taneggarut, azemz d wemkan n temlilit ad awen-ten-nsentem s tira send yal lexlaṣ, yerna asuter-nwen mazal-it ur yelli d aṭṭaf n umkan yeṭṭfen. Yal agraw ur yesɛi ara ugar n xemsa n yemttekkiyen i yal amwanes ; ma ɛeddan xemsa n yemttekkiyen, nezmer a d-nesbedd agraw wis sin deg wakud-nni kan, ma yella nezmer ; ma yezmer ad yili d ssuma-s ad awen-ten-nsentem s tira. Asteɛfu yella deg tlemmast n ubrid : ur nesɛi amtawa d ula d yiwen n wexxam n učči neɣ n tissit, ur neṭṭif ula d yiwet n ṭṭabla, ur nemsefham ɣef ula d yiwet n ssuma ; ma yella teččam neɣ teswam kra, d kunwi ara ixelṣen, ulac kra n wannect-a deg ssuma. Tikli tetteffeɣ seg wemkan anda tzedɣem deg Paris yerna tettuɣal ɣer-s.

Ulac tikcemt s lexlaṣ, ulac tirza ɣer daxel, ulac učči neɣ tissit i yeddan deg ssuma. Panthéon, taglisya Saint-Germain-des-Prés d texxamt n uxeddim n Delacroix ad ten-id-neḥku seg usarag neɣ seg zdat n tewwurt ; amwanes ad awen-d-yini anwa i yuklalen tuɣalin s uḍar, d wanwa ara yezwiren.

Deg ubrid

Tama tazelmaḍt n yimyura, seg tgzirt Saint-Louis ɣer Saint-Germain-des-Prés

Tigzirt Saint-Louis

Snat n tegzirin timecṭaḥ i yeqqimen beṛṛa n temdint armi d 1614 : aseggas-nni, ččuren aɣanim n waman i tent-yefreqen, deg wemkan n uzniq Poulletier n wass-a, yerna Christophe Marie yeṭṭef awal akked sin n yimendiden ad bnun leqnaṭer ad bḍun akal ɣef tferqin, di lmuqabla n uzref ad t-zzenzen. Aẓeṭṭa n yiznaqen, yiwen uzniq alemmas, sin yidisan n ṛṛsif d tlata n yiznaqen i ten-izegren, yekfa azal n 1660, yerna udmawen n leɛmarat i tzegrem d wid n lqern wis 17 deg tuget. Deg 19 quai de Bourbon, Camille Claudel tedder yerna tenqec seg 1899 armi d 10 meɣres 1913, ass i deg tt-rran ɣer sbiṭar n waṭṭan n lɛeqel s usuter n twacult-is : ṛbeɛṭac n yiseggasen n uxeddim dagi, sakin tlatin n yiseggasen n uɣlaq, armi temmut deg 1943. Ixeddimen-is ur d-ttwafen ara s tidet ala deg yiseggasen n 1980.

Quartier latin d Panthéon

Voltaire d Rousseau ṭṭsen qbala i wayeḍ deg texxamt n ddaw wakal, ɣas akken myekrahen aṭas asmi mazal ddren. Ass n 30 ɣuct 1755, Voltaire yura i Rousseau ɣef Discours sur l'inégalité : « Werǧin sexdmen annect-a n leɛqel iwakken a ɣ-rren d ibhimen ; mi neqqar adlis-nwen, yettas-d lebɣi ad neddu ɣef ṛebɛa n yiḍarren. » Marie Curie tewweḍ ɣer dagi deg 1995, d tamettut tamezwarut i ikecmen ɣef ddemma n uxeddim-is s timmad-is, deg usenduq yettwaɣummen s uldun ɣef ddemma n traḍyuaktivit i d-yeqqimen deg-s ; ikeṛṛasen-is n usirew, i yettwaḥerzen deg Tesdlist Taɣelnawt, mazal-iten d irmuden, ur zmiren medden ad ten-ẓren ala s tewtilin iǧehden. Yerna d seddaw tqubbeṭ-agi i yeɛelleq Foucault, deg 1851, yiwen n wesɣun n sebɛa u settin n lmitrat s tkurt n tmanya u ɛecrin n kilu, iwakken tuzzya n Wakal ad tban s tiṭ kan. Taxxamt n ddaw wakal, apandul d wayen yellan daxel ur ten-tettwalim ara ala ma tkecmem, ayen ur nelli ara deg ssuma : aḥbas yettili deg usarag.

Asarag Contrescarpe d uzniq Mouffetard

Aḥric n rue Mouf, win n yiseggasen imezwura n Hemingway deg Paris. Seg yennayer 1922 armi d ɣuct 1923, izdeɣ akked Hadley deg 74 rue du Cardinal-Lemoine, snat n texxamin war aman iḥman war lḥemmam, ɣef wemyat n lmitrat seg usarag ; yiwet n telwiḥt ɣef wudem n wexxam i d-yesmektayen belli aḥric-agi i yellan d tazwara n tidet n uxeddim-is d uɣanib aḥerfi i s-d-yefkan ccan. Iblaḍen n uzniq yeknan, ssuq deg ubrid, udmawen iḍiqen : d Paris n tazwara mačči d win n ccan, yerna yeṭṭef aktal n taddart ɣef ɛecṛa n tisdidin seg Panthéon.

Urti n Luxembourg

Urti d ayla n Sénat, yerna ulugen-is yegdel daxel-is tikli d ubeddi n yal takeṛṛust d yal allal n usiweḍ, ɣas ulamma ur yesɛi ara amutur : ivila ttɣimin ccudden ɣer yiqwasen n beṛṛa n urti, war aɛessas, yerna aḥbas yettili s uḍar. Ikursiyen n uzzal i tzemrem ad ten-tesmuttim zzi i temda, wid yuraren cciṭranj, inelmaden i yettɣaṛen ɣef tseddarin : udem n wemkan-agi drus i ibeddel, yerna d netta i d-yefkan isebtar ɣef yisebtar deg tsekla tafransist. D amkan yelhan i usteɛfu n ɛecṛa n tisdidin.

Asarag d tglisya Saint-Germain-des-Prés

Ṣṣumɛa i yellan zdat-wen tettwabna gar 990 d 1014 : d taqburt akk deg Paris, s txeṛṛumin-is n umenɣi, s tseddarin-is i xedmen s leɛmed iɛewwjen, s ṣṣifa-s n lbuṛǧ, d ayen kan i d-yeqqimen seg wexxam n yiruḥaniyen ibenediktiyen i yesbedd deg lqern wis 6 Childebert, mmi-s n Clovis. Daxel yensa Descartes, i d-yettwawin ɣer dagi ass n 26 fuṛar 1819 gar sin n yimusnawen ibenediktiyen, Mabillon d Montfaucon, maca war aqerruy-is : yenger asmi i t-id-ssufɣen si tmeḍlin tikkelt tamezwarut, iɛedda seg wemjemmaɛ ɣer wayeḍ, yerna ass-a yella deg leḥraz n musée de l'Homme. Zzi i usarag, lqhawi n uḥric-agi uɣalen d biṛu i Sartre d Beauvoir deg tallit n uṭṭaf, acku dinna yeḥma, deg wexxam-nsen ala ; seld ṭṭrad, texxamin n ddaw wakal n uḥric ṭṭfent amkan s jazz. Aḥkeyu yettili seg zdat n tglisya : ur nkeccem ara ɣer tglisya, ur nkeccem ɣer ula d yiwen n wexxam n učči neɣ n tissit, yerna ulac učči neɣ tissit i yeddan deg ssuma.

Asarag Furstemberg

D yiwen seg yisuragen imecṭaḥ akk n Paris : ṛebɛa n ttjuṛ, yiwet n teftilt n ubrid, d texxamt n uxeddim n Delacroix deg tagara n wefrag i d-yezgan tama-s, deg 6 rue de Furstemberg. Yezdeɣ deg-s ass n 28 dujembeṛ 1857, mi yeǧǧa taxxamt n uxeddim tayeḍ yebɛeden ɣef ccɣel n Saint-Sulpice, anda i yeṣṣebbeɣ yiwet n texxamt n uẓalli, yerna dinna i yemmut ass n 13 ɣuct 1863, war awrit war anelmad. Ass-a d asalay aɣelnaw ; tikcemt ur telli ara deg ssuma, yerna aḥbas yettili deg usarag. Aṭas aya segmi qqaren medden belli Delacroix d mmi-s n Talleyrand war zzwaǧ : ṣṣifa-s tcuba aṭas ɣer Talleyrand mi yewsser, maca ulac ttbut, ihi ayagi yeqqim d ameslay kan n medden.

Azniq de l'Ancienne-Comédie d wefrag du Commerce-Saint-André

Azniq yerfed isem n yiwen n umezgun i yengren. La Comédie-Française tezdeɣ deg wuṭṭun 14 deg 1689, teldi tibburt-is s Phèdre n Racine akked Le Médecin malgré lui n Molière, sakin tettwaḥettem ad tenkel deg 1770, imi ḥeṛsen fell-as yimusnawen n Sorbonne, i yeqqersen imi sɛan d lǧiran wid yettmezgunen. Lqhawi i yeldin imiren deg uzniq, zdat n umezgun, uɣalen d amkan amezwaru ameqqran anda ttemlilin medden deg Paris : ttɣaṛen tiɣemsa s ṣṣut ɛlayen, ttmeslayen ɣef Encyclopédie, yerna qqaren belli Voltaire yettsew armi d ṛebɛin n tqbucin n lqahwa deg wass, ayen werǧin isseḥqeq yiwen. Ɣer tama, afrag du Commerce-Saint-André mazal-it ttezgiren-t medden am akken deg lqern wis 18 : deg wuṭṭun 8 i tettwasufuɣ L'Ami du peuple, aɣmis n Marat. Yiwen n lǧil kan i yellan gar wid i yuran Encyclopédie d wid n tegrawla : d ṭṭwabel-nni kan, mačči d inebgawen-nni. Kullec yettwaḥka seg uzniq d seg wefrag, i yeldin i medden.

Deg tilawt
Akud
Azal n 3 h, iḥbasen d usteɛfu ddan ; azal n 13 km, tuffɣa d tuɣalin deg wemkan anda tzedɣem deg Paris
Aswir
Afessas : tasawent ɣer Panthéon tettwaṭṭef s tallalt n trisiti. Ilaq ad tessnem ad tnehṛem avilu yerna ad terkidem ger tkeṛṛusin n Paris, imi abrid yettɛeddi ɣef yiznaqen anda ttedduent tkeṛṛusin. Yal aḥbas yettili s uvilu deg ufus neɣ s uvilu yeccudden ; deg urti n Luxembourg, ulugen n Sénat yeḥettem ad neǧǧ ivila ccudden beṛṛa i urti, war aɛessas. Tiwtilin n uttekki, ula d leɛmeṛ adday, ad d-ttwafessrent deg uṭṭaf n umkan
Tuffɣa
Tuffɣa d tuɣalin deg wemkan anda tzedɣem deg Paris, asensu neɣ tanezduɣt ; asrag d tansa tummidt n temlilit ad awen-ten-nsentem s tira deg uṭṭaf n umkan
Agraw
5 n yemttekkiyen d afellay i yal amwanes ; ma ɛeddan xemsa, nezmer a d-nesbedd agraw wis sin deg wakud-nni kan, ma yella nezmer ; ma yezmer ad yili d ssuma-s ad awen-ten-nsentem s tira
Tutlayin
Tafransist neɣ taglizit, ad tt-tefrenem deg uṭṭaf n umkan

Aṭṭaf n umkan d asuter, mačči d aṭṭaf n umkan yeṭṭfen : ad awen-nsentem s tira ma yezmer ad yili, azemz, amkan n temlilit d ssuma taneggarut send yal lexlaṣ. Ssumat d tiskanin i yal amdan, tabzert tekcem deg-sent, s useqdec n uvilu s tallalt n trisiti d ukask. Ulac tikcemt s lexlaṣ, ulac tirza ɣer daxel : tiḥkayin ttunefkent seg uzniq, seg zdat n tglisya neɣ seg lqenṭert.

Isteqsiyen ittuɣalen ɣef tikli-a

Asteɛfu yella deg ssuma ?

Ala. Ssuma tesɛa deg-s avilu s tallalt n trisiti, akask d umwanes i yeddan yid-wen deg ubrid meṛṛa. Ulac učči neɣ tissit i yeddan : ma yella teččam neɣ teswam kra deg usteɛfu, d kunwi ara ixelṣen. Amkan yettwafren deg wass-nni, ɣef leḥsab n medden i yellan d ubrid i nettef. Ur nesɛi amtawa d ula d yiwen n wexxam n učči neɣ n tissit, ur neṭṭif ula d yiwet n ṭṭabla, ur nemsefham ɣef ula d yiwet n ssuma.

Nkeccem ɣer Panthéon, ɣer tglisya neɣ ɣer lqhawi ?

Ala. Ssuma ur tesɛi deg-s ula d yiwet n tikcemt s lexlaṣ, ula d tirza ɣer daxel, ula d učči neɣ tissit : tiḥkayin ttilint seg uzniq, seg usarag, seg zdat n tglisya neɣ seg ubrid n medden. Ayagi yeṣṣaḥ i Panthéon d texxamt-is n ddaw wakal, i tglisya Saint-Germain-des-Prés d texxamt n uxeddim n Delacroix i yuɣalen d asalay aɣelnaw. Amwanes ad awen-d-yini d acu i yuklalen tuɣalin s uḍar, d wanwa ara yezwiren, ma yella ur tesɛim ara ala yiwet n tmeddit d tilellit.

Ilaq ad nɣeṛ imyura i d-yettwabedren ?

Ala. Nettḥekku ɣef yemdanen uqbel ixeddimen-nsen : tansiwin, timenɣiwin, ṭṭlaba d waṭas n lqahwa. Ma yella teɣṛam Hemingway neɣ Beauvoir, ad tɛeqlem imukan ; ma ulac, ad tuɣalem s tebdart n yidlisen ara teɣṛem.

Abrid yewɛer ɣef uvilu ?

Ḥesbet azal n tlettaɛec n yikilumitren, tuffɣa d tuɣalin deg wemkan anda tzedɣem deg Paris. Abrid yettawi, akken yezmer, iberdan n yivila d yiznaqen ihedden, maca ula d iznaqen anda ttedduent tkeṛṛusin : ilaq ad tessnem ad tnehṛem avilu yerna ad terkidem ger tkeṛṛusin n Paris. Tasawent ɣer Panthéon tettwaṭṭef s tallalt. Kra n tisdidin n uḥrurez ɣef uvilu llant deg tazwara, yerna leɛqel yettwaseggem ɣef ugraw, mačči d agraw ara iseggmen iman-is ɣef leɛqel.

Amek i yettili uṭṭaf n umkan ?

Ad ɣ-d-tefkem azemz, abrid d wamḍan n yemttekkiyen : asuter-nwen mazal-it ur yelli d aṭṭaf n umkan yeṭṭfen. Ad d-nuɣal ɣer-wen s wakud, s wemkan n temlilit d ssuma tummidt s tebzert-is, ad ttwasentment s tira send yal lexlaṣ. Imi tikli tettili deg wazemz i ɣef nemsefham, ur tesɛi ara azref n ubeddel n rray n ṛbeɛṭac n wussan (amagrad L. 221-28, 12° n Code de la consommation). Tiwtilin-nneɣ timatutin n uzenzi, i d-yeqqaren daɣen anwa d alemmas n yimsaɣen i yesɛan azref, ad tent-tafem deg uḍar n usebter.

Ssutret amkan

Aṭṭaf n umkan d asuter, mačči d aṭṭaf n umkan yeṭṭfen : ad awen-nsentem s tira ma yezmer ad yili, azemz, amkan n temlilit d ssuma taneggarut send yal lexlaṣ. Ssumat d tiskanin i yal amdan, tabzert tekcem deg-sent, s useqdec n uvilu s tallalt n trisiti d ukask. Ulac tikcemt s lexlaṣ, ulac tirza ɣer daxel : tiḥkayin ttunefkent seg uzniq, seg zdat n tglisya neɣ seg lqenṭert.

Ssutret amkan