Ameẓlu yeḥbes 2 n yimalasen, imi ugten yisuturen

Tikliwin i yesɛan aseḥqeq d lexlaṣ ad ddunt, ma d tiyaḍ ad awen-nerr idrimen.

Paris n yinaẓuren : Montmartre d Pigalle s uvilu n trisiti, deg ugraw amecṭuḥ

Kkuẓ n yisragen akken ad talim tawrirt n lweṛcat d yikabaṛen, seg yibulfaṛen n Clichy d Rochechouart armi d tiẓurin n Clos Montmartre, akked umwanes i yessnen tiqsiḍin yeffren deffir n wudmawen n yixxamen. Tallalt n trisiti ad tessifsus tisawin, ma d amur anda tewɛer tsawent ugar, ad yettwazger s uḍar, ivila ad qqimen d akessar.

Ssuter azemz i tikli-a Isallen ibaɣuren Wali ssumat

Montmartre yessaweḍ ɣer 130 n lmitrat. D ayen drus ɣef tkarḍa, d ayen meqqren i yiḍarren : tawrirt tettwali s yiberdan iḥerfiyen d tseddaṛin, yerna abrid s uḍar seg tlemmast n temdint yetteddem tugett n ṣṣbeḥ. Avilu s tallalt n trisiti yefru ugur-a s wudem nniḍen. Ad tawḍem ɣer Pigalle war leɛtab, ad talim boulevard de Clichy gar tzeqwin tiqburin n wurar d texxamin n yiṣewwaren i yeddren s tugniwin n yinaẓuren, sakin ivila ad qqimen d akessar n rue Lepic. Tasawent tettwali s uḍar, s leɛqel, acku tizniqin n tewrirt ur ttwaxedment ara i uvilu.

Tawrirt tefka-d, deg wazal n xemseṭṭac n yiseggasen, amur ameqqran n tẓuri tatrart, yerna tefka-t-id deg yixxamen n wesɣar ur nesɛi ara aḥmu ilaqen. Tḥemmel daɣen aqeṣṣer. Ass n 8 meɣres 1910, amaru Roland Dorgelès, i yebɣan ad yeḍs ɣef usuneɣ n uzwir, yerḍel Lolo, aɣyul n dadda Frédé i yesɛan yiwen ukabaṛ deg tewrirt, yeqqen tabrict ɣer ujeḥniḍ-is, yeǧǧa lḥiwan ad yeṣfeḍ ɣef uceṭṭiḍ yal tikkelt i s-yefka zzruḍiya. Tugna, i s-semman Et le soleil s'endormit sur l'Adriatique, tettwasken deg Salon des Indépendants s uzmul n Joachim-Raphaël Boronali, i d-yekkan seg ubeddel n yisekkilen n Aliboron, isem aqbur n uɣyul : tettwaqbel, medden ɛeqlen-tt, tettwazenz s ukkuẓ meyya n yifranken. D Dorgelès s timmad-is i d-yeldin taḥraymit-a deg yiɣmisen, mi tenza tugna.

Tikli tettekker seg wemkan anda tzedɣem deg Paris, asensu neɣ tanezduɣt, anda ara d-teṭṭfem avilu s tallalt n trisiti Tern yettwaheggan ɣef teɣzi-nwen, s ukask, akked kra n tesdatin n ulmad send ad tnehṛem, yerna tettuɣal ɣer wemkan-nni kan, anda ara d-rren ivila. Ilaq ad tessnem ad tnehṛem avilu yerna ad tilim di lehna deg lḥerka n Paris : abrid iteddu ɣef yiberdan yeldin i lḥerka, amwanes yettaṭṭaf leɛqel n ugraw. Ar semmus n yemttekkiyen i yal amwanes ; ma yugar semmus, nezmer ad d-nesbedd agraw wis sin deg yiwen n wakud, ma nesɛa tagnit ; ma yezmer ad yili d ssuma-ines ad awen-d-nsentem s tira. Awit irkasen ifessasen d waman, acku tawrirt tettwazger s uḍar, tasawent tewɛer s tidet. Abrid s telqey yettwaheggu deg wass n tikli ɣef leḥsab n tignewt, n lɣaci d liḥala n lḥerka.

Deg ubrid

Paris n yinaẓuren : Montmartre d Pigalle s uvilu n trisiti, deg ugraw amecṭuḥ

Place Blanche d Place Pigalle

Seg yiseggasen 1880, adda n tewrirt yuɣal d amkan n wurar n lɣaci : tizeqwin n uzawan, leḥfayel n ccḍeḥ, ikabaṛen d yinezzayen n llebsa n wurar. Toulouse-Lautrec yesseɛday din iḍan-is yessunuɣ ticeṭṭaḥin, ma d tin yettwassnen ugar gar-asent, Louise Weber i wumi qqaren La Goulue, tagellidt n cancan n yiseggasen 1890, temmut d taẓawalit, ttun-tt medden, deg 1929 deg sbiṭar Lariboisière. Iɣsan-is rran-ten ɣer tmeqbert n Montmartre deg 1992, s ussuter n twacult-is. Aḥkku yettili seg rrṣif : ulac tanekcumt, ulac urar, ulac tissit i yeddan deg tikli.

Boulevard de Clichy d boulevard de Rochechouart

Sin n yibulfaṛen-a d nutni i yellan d abrid ameqqran n wurar deg Paris, yerna tugett n tzeqwin-nsen ur d-teqqim ara. Cirque Fernando, i yeldin deg 1875 i yuɣalen d cirque Medrano, yella deg wuṭṭun 63 n boulevard de Rochechouart, ɣer tama n rue des Martyrs : Degas, Renoir d Toulouse-Lautrec ttasen-d ad sunɣen inaẓuren n wennar. Yemdel deg 1963, yerna yettwahudd deg wambeṛ 1972. Nettali ibulfaṛen-a nerkeb ivila, nettɣara udmawen n yixxamen am tefelwit taqburt n uberreḥ.

Rue Lepic, tisirin Blute-fin d Radet

Ivila ad qqimen d akessar, rue Lepic tettwali s uḍar, d abrid-nni i yessen umaḍal meṛṛa s ssinima deg 2001. Ufella-s mazal snat n tsirin tineggura n tewrirt, i deg llant zik azal n tlatin : Blute-fin, i yebnan deg 1622, d Radet n 1717, i sin ttwarran deg umuɣ n yimḍiqen imeqqranen n umezruy seg 1958. Imawlan n tsirin uɣalen-tent d imukan n ccḍeḥ d tissit deg tazwara n lqern tis tesɛaṭac, yerna d aḥefli-nni n wass n lḥedd i yesuneɣ Renoir deg 1876. Tisirin llant deg wakal uslig : nettmuqul-itent seg webrid, war tirza. Ḥesbet azal n uzgen n usrag n tikli, deg tsawent.

Place Émile-Goudeau d Bateau-Lavoir

D axxam n wesɣar d lezjaj, war aman, war trisiti, s yiwet kan n tala i lweṛcat meṛṛa : dinna i yesuneɣ Picasso Les Demoiselles d'Avignon deg 1907, yezzi-yas-d Modigliani, Apollinaire, Max Jacob d Juan Gris. Times, deg mayyu 1970, ur d-teǧǧi ala udem n uxxam. Axxam yettwabna i tikkelt-nniḍen s lbitun deg 1978 s ufus n umeskar n lebni Claude Charpentier, am akken yella ɣer tama n usarag ; d Ville de Paris i t-yesɛan, yerna deg-s ass-a xemsa u ɛecrin n lweṛcat n yinaẓuren ur nettwarzu ara. Ma d asarag, tala-ines d yiɣimiyen-is mazal-iten akken llan.

Clos Montmartre d tmeqbert Saint-Vincent

Deg rrif ugafa, gar rue des Saules d rue Saint-Vincent, Ville de Paris tettḥadar 1 762 n yimɣan n tẓurin d wazal n tlatin n leṣnaf, i ttwazzun i tikkelt-nniḍen deg yiseggasen 1930 ɣef tɣilt i yeṭṭfen tiẓurin seg tlemmast n lqerun. D nettat i d taqburt akk yerna i d-yettakken ugar gar semmus n tferranin n tẓurin n temdint, akked tid n Belleville, n Bercy, n parc Georges-Brassens d Butte Bergeyre. Tamegra tettwazenz deg lexrif i win ara yefken ugar, i lfayda n yisenfaren inmettiyen n temnaḍt tis 18. Ssit-is tettawi-d taḍsa seg lqern tis ṣebɛaṭac, mi yella yiwen n wawal n Paris yettqeṣṣir yakan ɣef ccṛab-a i ur nesɛi tazmert nniḍen ala akken ad tbeẓẓḍem. Amkan-a yezzi-yas uzeṭṭa, ur yettwarzu ara s tlelli : nettmuqul-it seg webrid, yerna ulac aɛraḍ n ccṛab i yeddan deg tikli. Zdat-s, tameqbert tamecṭuḥt Saint-Vincent teṭṭef aẓekka n Maurice Utrillo, i yemmuten deg 1955, i yesunɣen iberdan-a tudert-is meṛṛa.

Rue des Saules d usarag n Sacré-Cœur

Rue des Saules teṣṣubb gar tẓurin, tuɣal ad tali ɣer uqacuc n tewrirt, gar yikabaṛen anda i ssekkaren iḍan Picasso d Modigliani deg tazwara n lqern. Nnig-sen, asarag n Sacré-Cœur yeldi-d tamuɣli tameqqrant ɣer unẓul n temdint : taglisit tebna s uẓru n lǧir i yesmellulen mi d-yekkat ugeffur, ma d lǧerṣ-is, la Savoyarde, 18 835 n kilu i yettwafsin deg Haute-Savoie deg 1891, yewweḍ ɣer tewrirt ass n 16 tuber 1895, zzuɣren-t tmanya u ɛecrin n yiɛewdiwen. Mazal-it d lǧerṣ ameqqran akk n Fransa. Aḥkku yettili seg usarag, war anekcum ɣer tqubbeṭ neɣ ɣer daxel.

Tameqbert n Montmartre

Tameqbert tella deg yiwen n umkan anda i d-ttekksen zik lǧebs, am tbaqit, i ɣef yezger lqenṭra n rue Caulaincourt sennig yiẓekwan ; nekcam-d s adda, seg avenue Rachel, deg yisragen n tullya i tesbadu Ville de Paris. Dalida tegen deg uḥric wis 18, seddaw n tugna s teɣzi n tidet i yexdem Aslan, François Truffaut deg wis 21, Hector Berlioz deg wis 20, ma d amedyaz Heinrich Heine deg wis 27. Aẓekka n Émile Zola, deg wis 19, d ilem seg wasmi i wwin iɣed-is ɣer Panthéon deg 1908, ǧǧan-t i ucfaw. La Goulue tuɣal-d ɣer dagi ɣer taggara. Ma temdel tmeqbert, amkan-a ad yettwabeddel.

Deg tilawt
Akud
Azal n 4 n yisragen, s ubrid n tuffɣa d tuɣalin seg wemkan anda tzedɣem d yiḥbasen ; akud-a d amedya kan, ad d-yettwasentem s tira deg uṭṭaf n umkan
Aswir
Afessas s uvilu, tallalt n trisiti tessifsus tisawin : seg 12 ɣer 15 km, s tuffɣa d tuɣalin seg wemkan anda tzedɣem, ɣef yiberdan yeldin i lḥerka. Seg 1,5 ɣer 2 km s uḍar ɣef tewrirt, deg-sen tasawent iǧehden d tseddaṛin, nettnaṣaḥ irkasen ifessasen. Abrid-a ur iwata ara i yimdanen ur nezmir ara ad ddun akken ilaq.
Tuffɣa
Amkan anda tzedɣem deg Paris, asensu neɣ tanezduɣt, s tuɣalin ɣer wemkan-nni kan anda ara d-rren ivila ; asrag d wemkan n temlilit s telqey ad awen-ten-nsentem s tira deg uṭṭaf n umkan
Agraw
Ar semmus n yemttekkiyen i yal amwanes. Ma yugar semmus, nezmer ad d-nesbedd agraw wis sin deg yiwen n wakud, ma nesɛa tagnit ; ma yezmer ad yili d ssuma-ines ad awen-d-nsentem s tira.
Tutlayin
Tafṛansist neɣ taglizit, ad tt-id-tinim deg ussuter-nwen

Aṭṭaf n umkan d assuter, mačči d aṭṭaf n umkan yeṭṭfen : ad awen-d-nsentem s tira ma yezmer ad yili, azemz, amkan n temlilit d ssuma taneggarut send akk lexlaṣ. Ssumat d timedyatin i yal amdan, tibzar meṛṛa ddant deg-sent, s useqdec n uvilu s tallalt n trisiti d ukask. Ulac tanekcumt ara yettwaxelṣen neɣ tirza ɣer daxel : aḥkku yettili seg webrid, seg usarag neɣ seg lqenṭra.

Isteqsiyen i d-yettuɣalen ɣef tikli-a

Ilaq ad tilim d inaddalen i tikli-a ?

Tallalt n trisiti d nettat ara yawin tazegrarin d tsawin, yerna deg tazwara ad tesɛum kra n tesdatin akken ad tissinem avilu. Maca ilaq ad tessnem ad tnehṛem avilu yerna ad tilim di lehna deg lḥerka n Paris, acku abrid iteddu ɣef yiberdan yeldin i lḥerka. Ayen yesɛeṭṭben s tidet d amur i yettwazegren s uḍar ɣef tewrirt, seg 1,5 ɣer 2 km s tsawent iǧehden d tseddaṛin : awit irkasen ifessasen d waman. Abrid-a ur iwata ara i yimdanen ur nezmir ara ad ddun akken ilaq. Amwanes yettaṭṭaf leɛqel n ugraw, yerna iḥbasen llan yal cwiṭ.

Nettnehher deg tzenqiwin timecṭaḥ n Montmartre ?

Ala, yerna s lebɣi-nneɣ : iberdan n tewrirt ḥerfen, uɣen s yiblaḍen, yerna tseddaṛin gezment-ten. Ivila ad qqimen d akessar, amur n ufella n ubrid yettwazger s uḍar, ayen i d-yeǧǧan akud akken ad twalim ad tsellem, sakin ad ten-tafem i ukessar d tuɣalin ɣer wemḍiq-nwen n tuffɣa.

Anwa ass ara nefren ?

Nesmenyaf ussan n dduṛt d yisragen n ṣṣbeḥ : Montmartre yeččur d lɣaci ussan n sset d lḥedd n unebdu. Init-ed izemzen i wen-yezmren deg ussuter-nwen, sakin a wen-d-nefk lawan. Abrid s telqey yettwaheggu deg wass n tikli ɣef leḥsab n tignewt, n lɣaci d lḥerka, yerna yezmer ad yettwabeddel yiwen n wemkan ma yemdel.

Acḥal teswa tikli-a, amek ara neṭṭef amkan ?

Ssumat d timedyatin, tibzar meṛṛa ddant deg-sent : 100 euros i yal amdan deg tikli yebḍan, 125 euros i yal amdan deg tikli tuslig, avilu s tallalt n trisiti d ukask ddan deg ssuma. Assuter-nwen mačči d aṭṭaf n umkan yeṭṭfen : ad awen-d-nsentem s tira azemz, amkan n temlilit d ssuma taneggarut send akk lexlaṣ. Ulac tanekcumt ara yettwaxelṣen, ulac tirza ɣer daxel, ulac tissit neɣ učči i yeddan deg ssuma ; aḥkku yettili seg webrid, seg rrṣif neɣ seg usarag.

Tikliwin nniḍen
Semmus n tegrawliwin deg tmanyin n yiseggasen, seg Bastille armi d mur des Fédérés 1789, 1792, 1830, 1848, 1871 : cwiṭ ugar n tmanyin n yiseggasen n yiɣrban n yiberdan, n ccerɛ d rrsas, gar place de la Bastille d mur des Fédérés n Père-Lachaise. Azal n tlata n yisragen d uzgen s uvilu s tallalt n trisiti deg ugraw amecṭuḥ, deg-sen azal n tlatin n tesdatin s uḍar deg yiberdan n tmeqbert, akked umwanes i d-yeḥkun ayen ur d-qqaren ara yiblaḍen n ubrid. Rrif azelmaḍ n yimaruten, seg île Saint-Louis armi d Saint-Germain-des-Prés Sebɛa n yiḥbasen gar île Saint-Louis d yiberdan n Saint-Germain-des-Prés, anda i gezmen aẓru, anda uran, anda swan aṭas n lqahwa, anda d-rran ddunit d tajdidt s ṣṣut ɛlayen. Azal n tlata n yisragen s uvilu s tallalt n trisiti deg ugraw amecṭuḥ, s wesgunfu deg tlemmast n ubrid, ayen ara teswem neɣ ara teččem dinna d kunwi ara t-ixelṣen. Paris ur nettwassen ara : iberdan yettwaɣummen, Belleville d Père-Lachaise s uvilu n trisiti Kkuẓ n yisragen deg Paris ur d-yettbanen ara seg yiberdan imeqqranen : iberdan yettwaɣummen s lezjaj n tazwara n lqern tis tesɛaṭac, tibbura n waman n Canal Saint-Martin, tamuɣli tameqqrant n Belleville d yiberdan n Père-Lachaise. D tikli s umwanes i wid i d-yettuɣalen ɣer Paris, akked yimezdaɣ n Paris yebɣan ad ẓren tamdint-nsen.

Ssutret amkan

Aṭṭaf n umkan d assuter, mačči d aṭṭaf n umkan yeṭṭfen : ad awen-d-nsentem s tira ma yezmer ad yili, azemz, amkan n temlilit d ssuma taneggarut send akk lexlaṣ. Ssumat d timedyatin i yal amdan, tibzar meṛṛa ddant deg-sent, s useqdec n uvilu s tallalt n trisiti d ukask. Ulac tanekcumt ara yettwaxelṣen neɣ tirza ɣer daxel : aḥkku yettili seg webrid, seg usarag neɣ seg lqenṭra.

Ssutret amkan