Ameẓlu yeḥbes 2 n yimalasen, imi ugten yisuturen

Tikliwin i yesɛan aseḥqeq d lexlaṣ ad ddunt, ma d tiyaḍ ad awen-nerr idrimen.

Iṛebbiten d tɣaltin : seg udrar Sainte-Geneviève ɣer tɣalt Montmartre

Azal n kkuẓ isragen gar snat n tɣaltin tiṣfanin, azal n ɛecrin kilumitren, tuffɣa d tuɣalin deg wemkan anda tzedɣem deg Paris. Isawnen, d tallalt n trisiti ara ten-yawin, kunwi teǧǧam-d nnefs-nwen i usmeḥses. Aḥkku ad d-yili berra, ulac deg ssuma la anekcum ɣer yimḍiqen la ayen ara teččem neɣ ara teswem.

Ssuter azemz i tikli-a Isallen ibaɣuren Wali ssumat

Iṛebbiten d tɣaltin yeqqen snat n tɣaltin i yebnan Paris, yal yiwet s ubrid-is : adrar Sainte-Geneviève, anda tameksawt n Nanterre tuɣal d tamɛessast n temdint, d tɣalt Montmartre, anda tmacahut teqqar-d gezmen aqerru i lasquf Denis azal n useggas 250. Gar-asent, azal n ɛecrin kilumitren d azal n kkuẓ isragen seg wemkan anda tzedɣem : Panthéon, Saint-Étienne-du-Mont, Grande Mosquée de Paris, anda tirzi d latay s nneɛnaɛ ddan deg ssuma, Notre-Dame seg usarag d leqwaɛed n wasif, Saint-Eustache, syin akin tazgert ɣer ugafa d tuluɣ ɣer Sacré-Cœur, uqbel tuɣalin akken ma nella ɣer wemḍiq n tuffɣa.

Dagi daɣen, tuget n uḥkku ad d-tili berra. Zdat Grande Mosquée de Paris, i yeldin ass n 15 yulyu 1926 s ufus n uselway Gaston Doumergue akked usulṭan Moulay Youssef, awal iqqim d aḥrir : lebni-a yekka-d seg Ṭṭrad Ameqqran d ɛecrat n yigimen n yiserdasen imeslmen i yemmuten ɣef Fransa, Aparlaman yefka tallalt n yidrimen s usaḍuf n 19 ɣuct 1920, sin iseggasen deffir uḥbas n umenɣi, ma di lawan n Uṭṭaf, sellken dinna tudrin s iselkinen n timagit tameslemt n lekdeb, mi yella d amdebbar Si Kaddour Benghabrit, s tegnatin yettwaklasen, maca imezruyanen mazal ur mtawan ara ɣef umḍan-nsent. Aḥkku ad yebdu berra, neqqar udem n lebni akked ṣṣumɛa n kraḍ u tlatin n lmitrat seg ubrid, syin tirzi ɣer lebni d latay s nneɛnaɛ ddan deg ssuma. Daxel, tirza ttilint s tsusmi, ɣef tewtilin n usnubget d isragen n wemḍiq, yerna tikli werǧin tetttteddu ass n lǧemɛa, imi d ass ideg tettttwaɣlaq Grande Mosquée de Paris i tirza. Ur nesnerni i wacemma, ur nettttaṭṭaf tama n yiwen.

Ad tnehṛem ivila Tern s tallalt n trisiti, akask yettttunefk-awen, s umwanes yellan yid-wen seg tazwara ar taggara, s ugraw ur nettɛeddi ara semmus n yemttekkiyen. Ma yella ugar n semmus n yemdanen, nezmer a d-nesbedd agraw wis sin deg wakud-nni kan, akken ara ɣ-yizmir wakud ; ma yezmer ad yili akked ssuma-s ad awen-d-nsentem s tira. Ilaq ad tessnem ad tnehṛem avilu yerna ad tilim di laman deg iberdan n Paris ideg tteddunt tkerrusin : abrid iteddu deg iberdan yeldin i tkerrusin, gar-asen kra n yiberdan iɛemren gar les Halles d ugafa n Paris. Yiwen n uḥric kan ara yilin s uḍar, tuluɣ taneggarut ɣer tɣalt seg tebḥirt, azal n xemseṭṭac n ddqayeq s leɛqel, ivila ad qqimen qqnen s tsarut ddaw.

Ssuma n uɛeggen d 105 euros i yal amdan, s ṭṭaksat meṛṛa, deg tikli yebḍan, d 125 euros i yal amdan, s ṭṭaksat meṛṛa, deg tikli tuslig. Deg-s tirzi ɣer Grande Mosquée de Paris d latay s nneɛnaɛ. Ur yeddi ara deg-s anekcum ɣer yimḍiqen imeqqranen nniḍen, ur yeddi ara wayen ara teččem neɣ ara teswem ɣer wiyaḍ : ur yeddi Panthéon, anda anekcum s lexlaṣ yerna nheddeṛ fell-as seg usarag, ur yeddi ufinikuler n Montmartre. Asuter-nwen n wazemz mačči d aṭṭaf n umkan yeṭṭfen : a d-nuɣal ɣur-wen, s umata deg sin wussan n uxeddim, s wakud, s wemḍiq n temlilit d ssuma taneggarut, ara wen-d-yettwasentmen s tira uqbel yal lexlaṣ. Imi tikli d ameẓlu n usgunfu i d-yettttunefken deg wazemz yettwasebden, amagrad L. 221-28, 12° n code de la consommation ikkes azref n tuɣalin ɣer deffir n ṛbeɛṭac wussan ; tiwtilin n usefsex d usmutti llant deg tewtilin-nneɣ timatutin n uznuzu, ara wen-d-nemmel uqbel yal lexlaṣ.

Deg ubrid

Iṛebbiten d tɣaltin : seg udrar Sainte-Geneviève ɣer tɣalt Montmartre

Tuffɣa seg wemkan anda tzedɣem, syin tazgert ɣer udrar Sainte-Geneviève

Temlilit zdat usensu-nwen neɣ zdat tnezduɣt-nwen : asseɣti n ukursi n uvilu, akask, aɛraḍ n tallalt n trisiti, d kra n yilugan i yessehlen abrid gar tkerrusin n Paris. Syin netttteddu deg rrif azelmaḍ ɣer usammar, azal n ɛecrin ddqayeq s uvilu ɣef rrif n wasif d yiberdan n tmnaḍt tis 6, s yiwet n tikti deg uqerru : Paris d tamdint n tɣaltin i nettu imi nettali-tent s umitru. Ad talim snat deg-sent, tallalt n trisiti ad texdem azgen n uxeddim.

Place du Panthéon

Aḥkku ad yebdu zdat n yiwen n lebni i yebeddlen ddin s waṭas n tikkal, ugar n wakud i yettttidir unagraw n tsertit : d lekniza i yewɛed Louis XV d ccukṛan imi yeḥla seg wehlak-is, tuɣal d Panthéon n yergazen imeqqranen deg 1791, yerra-tt Napoléon i ddin deg 1806, yeǧǧa taxxamt n ddaw wakal i yimeqqranen n Tegelda, tuɣal d panthéon deg 1830, d amkan n uɛbad n Talsa deg 1848, d lekniza deg Tegelda tis snat, alamma d timeḍlin n Victor Hugo deg 1885 i yefran taluft i lebda. Dinna i yeɛelleq Foucault apandul-is deg 1851 iwakken ad yesken i medden, i tikkelt tamezwarut, belli Lqaɛa tettezzi ɣef yiman-is, ddaw lqubba n yiwet n lekniza taqdimt. Anekcum ɣer wemḍiq-a s lexlaṣ, ur yeddi ara deg ssuma-nneɣ : nheddeṛ ɣef kullec seg usarag.

Saint-Étienne-du-Mont

Lekniza n tmɛessast n Paris. Deg 1793, asenduq n ddheb d lfeṭṭa n Sainte Geneviève yettttufsi, ttwahudden leɛḍam-is iṣfanen ; ur d-yeqqim deg-sen ala yiwen n uḥric, ma d azru n uẓekka-s, i d-yewwin ɣer dagi deg 1803, ass-a d netttta i ɣef ttɛeggiden yemdanen deg wemḍiq-a, deg yiwet n lekniza tamecṭuḥt i d-yettwaseggmen deg 1853. Ma tella lekniza teldi, ulac ayen ara yeṭṭfen ad nekcem kra n ddqayeq s tsusmi, ad nwali jubé awḥid i d-yeqqimen deg Paris, d azeṭṭa n uẓru n lqern wis 16 anda snat n tseddarin ttezzint ɣef tgejda, akked yiblaḍen n Pascal d Racine, i d-yettttuwin leɛḍam-nsen si Port-Royal deg 1711. Ur nezmir ara a t-nwaɛed, yerna ulac anekcum yeddan deg ssuma. Berra, tiseddarin n yidis ugafa d tid ideg yettṛaǧu Owen Wilson ttnaṣfa n yiḍ deg usaru n Woody Allen.

Grande Mosquée de Paris, tirzi teddi deg ssuma

Ṣṣumɛa n kraḍ u tlatin n lmitrat deg wul n Quartier latin, i d-yeldin ass n 15 yulyu 1926 s ufus n uselway Gaston Doumergue akked usulṭan Moulay Youssef : Aparlaman yefka tallalt n yidrimen s usaḍuf n 19 ɣuct 1920, sin iseggasen deffir uḥbas n umenɣi n yiwen n ṭṭrad anda mmuten ɛecrat n yigimen n yiserdasen imeslmen ɣef Fransa. Ixeddamen n ṣṣenɛa i d-yusan seg Tefriqt n Ugafa i yecerḍen lǧebs, i yesbedden zellij, s uɣanib aspenyulli-amaɣribi i d-yesmektayen Fès d Grenade di tlemmast n tmnaḍt tis 5. Aḥkku ad yebdu berra, zdat udem n lebni, syin tirzi ɣer lebni d latay s nneɛnaɛ ddan deg ssuma. Daxel, tirza ttilint s tsusmi, ɣef tewtilin n usnubget d isragen i yesbedd wemḍiq s timmad-is, yerna tikli werǧin tetttteddu ass n lǧemɛa, imi d ass ideg yettttwaɣlaq i tirza.

Île de la Cité d Notre-Dame

S wawal wezzilen, seg usarag d leqwaɛed n wasif : d abennu i yebdan deg 1163 i yfuken azal n 1345, d ibennayen i yemyeṭṭafaren azal n sin n leqrun, syin ass n 15 yebrir 2019 d uzeṭṭa n wesɣar n ssqef i semman Teẓgi, i d-yettttuɛawden s yikerrucen i gezmen yerna ṣeggmen s tcaqurt am akken deg lqern wis 13. Deg usarag, amdil n nnḥas n tenqiḍt zero n yiberdan n Fransa. Sennig, seg wass n 16 dujembeṛ 2023, yiwen n uyaziḍ i yesuneɣ Philippe Villeneuve yesɛa deg-s kraḍ n leɛḍam iṣfanen d yiwet n tqerɛet ittwaɣelqen, deg-s ismawen n wazal n sin n yigimen n yemdanen n ubennu : d ttṣawer-a i nettttaǧǧa i taggara. Ulac anekcum yeddan deg ssuma yerna ur nheddeṛ ara daxel.

Saint-Eustache

Lekniza n uɛebbuḍ n Paris, anda i s-xedmen aɣḍas aṣfan i Jean-Baptiste Poquelin ass n 15 yennayer 1622, acḥal uqbel ad yuɣal d Molière, d anda Louis XIV yeddem tagella taṣfant tamezwarut azal n 1649. Ass n 4 yulyu 1778, xedmen dinna timeḍlin n Anna Maria Mozart, i yemmuten deg Paris deg wakud n tmerrit n mmi-s n snat u ɛecrin iseggasen, ur nedday ara yid-s ɣer tmeqbert. Lurg, d yiwen seg wid akk imeqqranen n Fransa s wazal n tam n yigimen n yiɣunam, mazal-it yetttturar deg yiwen n usenduq n tmenṭac n lmitrat n teɣzi i bnan di tlemmast n lqern wis 19 ɣef yisuneɣ n Victor Baltard, amasdag n les Halles yellan zdat kan.

Tazgert ɣer Montmartre, rue des Martyrs

Ɛecrin ddqayeq s uvilu ɣer ugafa, s les Halles, rue Montmartre syin rue des Martyrs, anda asawen-is aleqqaq ad t-teddem tallalt n trisiti. D lawan-nni ideg tikli tesseddu snat n tɣaltin tiṣfanin n Paris deg yiwet n tsebḥit, war leɛtab n usawen, d lawan ideg nfehhem, nekni nettɛeddi ɣef uvilu, belli tamdint tebna ɣef yidurar n uẓru n lǧir d lǧebs. Rue des Martyrs tesɛa isem-a seg tmacahut-nni n tɣalt, tin n Denis d yimeddukal-is.

Tɣalt, Sacré-Cœur d tuɣalin

Ivila ad qqimen qqnen s tsarut ddaw, nettali s uḍar seg tebḥirt : isem n Montmartre, seg Lqern Alemmas, yezga gar sin n lmeɛni, adrar n Icuhad neɣ adrar n Mars, yerna tmacahut teqqar-d dagi i gezmen aqerru i lasquf Denis azal n 250, uqbel ad yeddu ɣer ugafa, aqerru-s ddaw yiɣil-is. Deg usarag, nheddeṛ ɣef teqṣiḍt n yiwet n lekniza tameqqrant i ɣef nnuɣen aṭas n wakud, i ttwaḥesben d tin yesɛan tanfa tazayezt s usaḍuf n 24 yulyu 1873, abennu yebda deg 1875, tazeqqa tagejdant teldi deg 1891, tettttuqeddes ass n 16 tuber 1919 deffir ṭṭrad, tfuk deg 1923, tettttuseklas d amḍiq ameqqran amezruyan deg 2022. Lǧerṣ-is Savoyarde, i d-yettttufsan deg Annecy deg 1895, yeẓẓay 18 835 n kilu yerna mazal-it d lǧerṣ ameqqran akk n Fransa ; azru-s n Château-Landon yessufuɣ-d lǧir i t-yessimlulen yal tikkelt ideg d-tekkat lehwa. Anekcum ɣer tzeqqa tagejdant d ilelli mi tella lekniza teldi, war awal war tawlaft s ɣur-nneɣ, yerna ur yeddi ara deg wayen i d-nettmuddu. Syin nettttader-d, nettttuɣal akken ma nella s uvilu ɣer wemḍiq-nwen n tuffɣa, anda ara d-rren ivila.

Deg tilawt
Akud
Azal n 4 isragen, ddan deg-s isbeddiyen, tuluɣ s uḍar d tuɣalin ɣer wemḍiq n tuffɣa, i wazal n ɛecrin kilumitren
Aswir
D abrid n tɣaltin, tallalt n trisiti ara yawin isawnen ; ilaq ad tessnem ad tnehṛem avilu yerna ad tilim di laman deg iberdan n Paris ideg tteddunt tkerrusin ; tuluɣ taneggarut ɣer tɣalt s uḍar, azal n xemseṭṭac n ddqayeq
Tuffɣa
Amkan anda tzedɣem deg Paris, asensu neɣ tanezduɣt ; tuffɣa d tuɣalin deg yiwen n wemḍiq, asrag d wemḍiq n temlilit n tidet ad awen-ten-nsentem s tira mi ara tṭṭfem amkan
Agraw
5 yemttekkiyen ɣer ufella i yal amwanes ; ma yella ugar n semmus n yemdanen, nezmer a d-nesbedd agraw wis sin deg wakud-nni kan, akken ara ɣ-yizmir wakud ; ma yezmer ad yili akked ssuma-s ad awen-d-nsentem s tira
Tutlayin
Tafransist neɣ taglizit, ad t-id-tinim deg usuter-nwen

Aṭṭaf n umkan d asuter, mačči d aṭṭaf n umkan yeṭṭfen : a wen-d-nsentem s tira ma yezmer ad yili, azemz, amḍiq n temlilit d ssuma taneggarut uqbel yal lexlaṣ. Ssumat n uɛeggen i yal amdan, s ṭṭaksat meṛṛa, ddan deg-sent aseqdec n uvilu s tallalt n trisiti d ukask, akked tirzi ɣer Grande Mosquée de Paris d latay s nneɛnaɛ. Tirzi-a tetteddu ɣef tewtilin n usnubget d isragen n wemḍiq, ara nsenqed uqbel a wen-nsentem akud-nwen ; tikli werǧin tetttteddu ass n lǧemɛa, imi d ass ideg yettttwaɣlaq i tirza. Ulac anekcum nniḍen s lexlaṣ i yeddan : imḍiqen imeqqranen nniḍen nheddeṛ fell-asen seg ubrid, seg usarag n zdat neɣ seg wemḍiq azayez.

Isteqsiyen i d-yettttuɣalen ɣef tikli-a

Tikli tetttteddu yal ass ?

Nesmenyaf ass n ttlata d wass n lexmis ṣṣbeḥ. Tikli werǧin tetttteddu ass n lǧemɛa, imi d ass ideg tettttwaɣlaq Grande Mosquée de Paris i tirza, yerna nettixiṛ tigirat n dduṛt deg unebdu, imi Montmartre yeččuṛ d yemdanen yerna tɣalt tewɛer i uḥkku. Ussan d isragen n uldi n yimḍiqen n ubrid d nutni s timmad-nsen i ten-yesbedden, zemren ad beddlen war alɣu : nesenqad tiwtilin n usnubget n Grande Mosquée de Paris uqbel a wen-nsentem akud-nwen, ma yella tirzi ur tezmir ara ad tili, a wen-d-nesumer azemz nniḍen neɣ ad nesseɣti ssuma. Init-aɣ-d ussan i wen-yezmren, a wen-d-nsentem akud s tira.

D acu yeddan deg ssuma ?

Avilu Tern s tallalt n trisiti, akask, amwanes yellan yid-wen seg tazwara ar taggara, d uḥkku. Yeddi daɣen deg-s tirzi ɣer Grande Mosquée de Paris d latay s nneɛnaɛ. Ur yeddi ara anekcum ɣer yimḍiqen imeqqranen nniḍen, ur yeddi ara wayen ara teččem neɣ ara teswem : Panthéon s lexlaṣ, nheddeṛ fell-as seg usarag, ma d afinikuler n Montmartre d wiyaḍ i t-yesseddun. Ayen yeddan deg ssuma, azemz d ssuma taneggarut a wen-d-ttwasentmen s tira uqbel yal lexlaṣ. Zdat imḍiqen n uɛbad, tuyat yeddlen d tsusmi d ayen ilaqen.

Ilaq ad tilim d imaddalen ?

Ala, maca ilaq ad tessnem ad tnehṛem avilu yerna ad tilim di laman deg iberdan n Paris ideg tteddunt tkerrusin : abrid iteddu deg iberdan yeldin i tkerrusin ɣef wazal n ɛecrin kilumitren. Tallalt n trisiti ad tawi isawnen, ula d win n rue des Martyrs. Yiwen n uḥric kan ara yilin s uḍar, tuluɣ taneggarut ɣer tɣalt seg tebḥirt, azal n xemseṭṭac n ddqayeq s leɛqel : ḥesbet-tt mi ara tferrnem abrid-nwen, imi afinikuler n Montmartre d wiyaḍ i t-yesseddun, ur yeddi ara deg ssuma-nneɣ, yerna kra n tikkal yeḥbes. Ar ass-a, ur nesɛi ara ɣef ubrid-a tarrayt i yemṣadan d ukursi n rrwidat.

Anda ttilin ivila deg wakud n tuluɣ s uḍar ?

Ad qqimen qqnen s tsarut akken ma llan ddaw tɣalt, deg wemḍiq azayez, deg wakud n tuluɣ d tirersi, azal n ṛebɛin ddqayeq. Nessuter-awen ur teǧǧat deg-sen acemma n wayen yesɛan azal, awit yid-wen ticekkarin, tiliɣra d lekwaɣeḍ-nwen. Tikli ad d-tekker seg wemḍiq-a i tuɣalin ɣer wemḍiq-nwen n tuffɣa.

Amek i yettttili uṭṭaf n umkan ?

Asuter-nwen mačči d lexlaṣ, mačči d aṭṭaf n umkan yeṭṭfen : a ɣ-d-teǧǧem azemz i tebɣam, abrid d umḍan n yemttekkiyen, a d-nuɣal ɣur-wen, s umata deg sin wussan n uxeddim, s wakud, s wemḍiq n temlilit d ssuma taneggarut. Ssuma n uɛeggen d 105 euros i yal amdan, s ṭṭaksat meṛṛa, deg tikli yebḍan, d 125 euros i yal amdan, s ṭṭaksat meṛṛa, deg tikli tuslig. Ssuma taneggarut a wen-d-tettwasentem s tira uqbel yal lexlaṣ. Imi ameẓlu-a yettttunefk deg wazemz yettwasebden, azref n tuɣalin ɣer deffir n ṛbeɛṭac wussan ur yeddi ara, akken i t-id-yenna umagrad L. 221-28, 12° n code de la consommation ; tiwtilin-nneɣ timatutin n uznuzu d tid i d-yemmeslayen ɣef usefsex d usmutti.

Tikliwin nniḍen
Tazwara taṣfant : tam n leqrun n uyla n ddin n Paris, seg Quartier latin ɣer Marais Kraḍ isragen d uzgen s umwanes, qrib war asawen, i wakken ad neqqen leknizat n Lqern Alemmas n rrif azelmaḍ, asarag n Notre-Dame d yiberdan n Marais. Aḥkku ad d-yili berra, ɣef yisuragen, ɣef yiberdan n uḍar d ɣef tqenṭar. Tuffɣa d tuɣalin deg wemkan anda tzedɣem deg Paris. Kraḍ isragen s uvilu n trisiti i wakken ad twalim ayen yesɛan azal deg Paris, s semmus n yemdanen. Tour Eiffel, les Invalides, la Concorde, le Louvre d Notre-Dame deg yiwet n tuffɣa n wazal n kraḍ isragen, qrib war asawen, tuɣalin ɣer wemḍiq n tuffɣa teddi deg-s. Semmus n yemdanen ɣer ufella zdat umwanes-nwen, avilu s tallalt n trisiti yettttunefk-awen, d teqṣiḍt deg yal aḥbas. Paris yettttecɛal, kunwi tellam ɣef uvilu deg lawan ilaqen. Sin isragen d uzgen mi ara d-yeɣli yiḍ, seg yimḍiqen imeqqranen yettttarqen s wureɣ ɣer leqwaɛed n wasif thennan, alamma d tafat i yettṛeqṛiqen ɣef Tour Eiffel. Deg yiḍ, nheddeṛ drus, nettwali ugar.

Ssutret amkan

Aṭṭaf n umkan d asuter, mačči d aṭṭaf n umkan yeṭṭfen : a wen-d-nsentem s tira ma yezmer ad yili, azemz, amḍiq n temlilit d ssuma taneggarut uqbel yal lexlaṣ. Ssumat n uɛeggen i yal amdan, s ṭṭaksat meṛṛa, ddan deg-sent aseqdec n uvilu s tallalt n trisiti d ukask, akked tirzi ɣer Grande Mosquée de Paris d latay s nneɛnaɛ. Tirzi-a tetteddu ɣef tewtilin n usnubget d isragen n wemḍiq, ara nsenqed uqbel a wen-nsentem akud-nwen ; tikli werǧin tetttteddu ass n lǧemɛa, imi d ass ideg yettttwaɣlaq i tirza. Ulac anekcum nniḍen s lexlaṣ i yeddan : imḍiqen imeqqranen nniḍen nheddeṛ fell-asen seg ubrid, seg usarag n zdat neɣ seg wemḍiq azayez.

Ssutret amkan